Empoderamento da Criatividade e Inclusão de Pessoas com Deficiência no Encantamento e Inovação Social dos Tecidos Gulijat nas Indústrias Criativas da Indonésia
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.59072/rper.vi73.762Palavras-chave:
GULIJAT, patrimônio cultural, inclusão da deficiência, indústrias criativas, inovação multicultural, artesanato têxtil, empoderamento socialResumo
Gulijat é uma técnica têxtil inovadora que integra a dobragem e o beliscamento em seu processo de coloração, produzindo padrões distintivos. Este estudo, em colaboração com a Tiara Handicraft, explora o Gulijat como estratégia de diversificação de produtos e inclusão de pessoas com deficiência nas indústrias criativas da Indonésia. A Tiara Handicraft iniciou-se como uma iniciativa para empregar pessoas com deficiência, evoluindo para uma plataforma que capacita os artesãos a estabelecer negócios independentes, sem abrir mão da colaboração. Utilizando uma metodologia de pesquisa em desenvolvimento, o estudo examina o processamento de materiais e a criação de produtos na Tiara Handicraft, em Java Oriental. O processo envolve duas etapas: (1) preparação dos materiais, incluindo a seleção de tecidos, a criação de motivos, a coloração e o acabamento; e (2) fabricação dos produtos, abrangendo o design, o corte, a montagem e o acabamento. A análise segue o referencial teórico da Tecnologia do Encantamento de Alfred Gell, avaliando como as inovações técnicas moldam as percepções dos consumidores. Uma pesquisa realizada com 100 entrevistados em Surabaya, Java Oriental, revelou que 85% apreciaram os motivos e a inovação do Gulijat, enquanto 38% sugeriram uma diversificação mais ampla dos produtos para atrair um público mais jovem.
Referências
Agustina, I. T., & Yosintha, R. (2021). The Impact of Covid-19 on Hotel Industry In Asian Countries. Jurnal Kepariwisataan Indonesia: Jurnal Penelitian Dan Pengembangan Kepariwisataan Indonesia, 14(2 SE-Articles), 159–167. https://doi.org/10.47608/jki.v14i22020.159-167
Amri, N. H. Z., Mohd Zain, M. Z., Hasbullah, S. W., Hassan, H., Sulaiman, N., Drahman, M. H., Jamaludin, N. S. A., Wardhani, A. K., & Sulaiman, V. A. (2023). Shibori Workshop As A mean To Empower People With Psychological Disorders At Bachok, Kelantan. In J. V Kumaran, P. V Rao, H. J.C.-C., A. Giordano, O. null, S. H. Samae, S. Appalasamy, S. H. Ya’acob, M. M. A. Khan, Z. Hamzah, S. Chindo, N. R. Awang, R. Ismail, M. Muhammad, K. A. Kambali, & M. N. A. N (Eds.), BIO Web of Conferences (Vol. 73). EDP Sciences. https://doi.org/10.1051/bioconf/20237303014
Anderson, E., Hunt, K., Wild, C., Nettleton, S., Ziebland, S., & MacLean, A. (2024). Episodic disability and adjustments for work: the ‘rehabilitative work’ of returning to employment with Long Covid. Disability & Society, 0(0), 1–23. https://doi.org/10.1080/09687599.2024.2331722
Banindro, B. S., Sobandi, B., Pandanwangi, A., Mutmainah, B., & Hartono, B. (2024). THE TRANSITION OF HINDU ERA GARUDA VISUAL ELEMENT INTO ISLAMIC ERA BATIK PATTERNS IN JAVA. New Design Ideas, 8(2), 467–489. https://doi.org/10.62476/ndi82467
Bhwana, P. G. (2021, October 3). Batik Industry Absorbs More Than 200,000 Workers. Tempo English.
Branch, R. M. (2009). Instructional Design: The ADDIE Approach. In Department of Educational Psychology and Instructional Technology University of Georgia (Vol. 53, Issue 9). Springer.
Bruce Tsui, R. T. H., & Tavitiyaman, P. (2024). Disability employment and work outcomes: The roles of hospitality job position and emotion. Journal of Human Resources in Hospitality & Tourism, 23(4), 712–740. https://doi.org/10.1080/15332845.2024.2374223
Chang, C.-C., Pai, C.-J., & Lo, H.-W. (2024). Sustainable Development Evaluation of Cultural and Creative Industries Using a Neutrosophic-Based Dematel-Topsis Approach. International Journal of Information Technology and Decision Making, 23(3), 1367–1400. https://doi.org/10.1142/S0219622023500426
Ciptandi, F., & Bastaman, W. N. U. (2025). Development of Gedog batik crafts using pyramid guide innovation of traditional artefacts. Craft Research, 16(1), 73–87. https://doi.org/10.1386/crre_00143_1
Combs, H. D. R., Cowand, A., Noonan, E., Weingartner, L., Harris, L., & Williams, S. (2025). Shared social identity and social safety as health promoting factors for gender diverse individuals with a chronic illness and/or disability: A qualitative analysis of intersectional experiences. International Journal of Transgender Health, 0(0), 1–13. https://doi.org/10.1080/26895269.2025.2450236
Firmansyah, A., Widjaja, S., Mandagi, K. Y., & Stefanie, T. (2025). Exploring the Role of Natural Dyed Shibori in Sustainable Fashion. IOP Conference Series: Earth and Environmental Science, 1488(1). https://doi.org/10.1088/1755-1315/1488/1/012027
Gandhiadi, G. K. (2019). Structural model for the role of government and social capital on business performance of weaving industry in Jembrana Regency of Bali. 1321(2). https://doi.org/10.1088/1742-6596/1321/2/022065
Gell, A. (2006). Technology of Enchantment and Enchantment of Technology. In E. Hirsch (Ed.), The Art of Antrophology Essay and Diagrams. Athlone Press.
Geminiani, L., Campione, F. P., Corti, C., Luraschi, M., Recchia, S., & Rampazzi, L. (2024). New Evidence of Traditional Japanese Dyeing Techniques: A Spectroscopic Investigation. Heritage, 7(7), 3610–3629. https://doi.org/10.3390/heritage7070171
Glăveanu, V. P. (Ed.). (2016). The Palgrave Handbook of Creativity and Culture Research. Palgrave Macmillan.
Grierson, E. (2011). Art and Creativity in the Global Economies of Education. Educational Philosophy and Theory, 43(4), 336–350. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1469-5812.2009.00550.x
Gur, A., & Klein, M. (2024). Social work supervision in the disability field: a systematic literature review. Social Work Education, 0(0), 1–22. https://doi.org/10.1080/02615479.2024.2319251
Hadley, B., Janice Rieger, K. E., & Paterson, E. (2024). Cultural safety as a foundation for allyship in disability arts. Disability & Society, 39(1), 213–233. https://doi.org/10.1080/09687599.2022.2067468
Handayani, A. P., Andreas, H., Pradipta, D., & Sarsito, D. A. (2025). CULTURAL HERITAGE AND ENVIRONMENTAL CHALLENGES ON CONSERVATION PROCESS OF BATIK: GROUND WATER AND SUBSIDENCE IN PEKALONGAN. International Journal of Conservation Science, 16(1), 71–82. https://doi.org/10.36868/IJCS.2025.01.04
Handoko, F., Vitasari, P., Hidayat, S., & Tjahjadi, M. E. (2019). Technology transfer program for SMEs in Indonesia. Journal of Physics: Conference Series, 1375(1). https://doi.org/10.1088/1742-6596/1375/1/012053
Hendrawan, A., & Suhaily, S. S. (2025). Development of Marbling Technique on Fabric Using Eco-Friendly Colouring Indigo Dye to Improve Aesthetic and Environmental Values. Paper Asia, 41(3), 269–280. https://doi.org/10.59953/paperasia.v41i3b.174
Hochstrasser, J. B. (2011). Batik Belanda: Transformed identities cross boundaries in the visual arts (Or: Eliza van Zuylen and creativity at the margins). Dutch Crossing, 35(2), 148–161. https://doi.org/10.1179/155909011X13033128278641
Hoogenboom, M., Bannink, D., & Trommel, W. (2010). From local to grobal, and back. Business History, 52(6), 932–954. https://doi.org/10.1080/00076791.2010.511183
Jamouchi, S. (2023). Shibori here and now An art project with natural materials in school; [Shibori her og nå Et kunstprosjekt med naturmaterialer i skolen]. FormAkademisk, 16(2). https://doi.org/10.7577/formakademisk.4896
Jayawinangun, R., Tosida, E. T., Nugraha, Y. A., Aunnie, D. P., Ardiansyah, D., Sambas, A., & Saputra, J. (2024). Investigating the communication network for batik village tourism stakeholders to support smart economy in Bogor regency, Indonesia. International Journal of Data and Network Science, 8(1), 381 – 392. https://doi.org/10.5267/j.ijdns.2023.9.016
Jiang, W. (2024). Research on Cross-Cultural Product and Service Design Dynamics in a Global Perspective. In Lecture Notes in Computer Science (including subseries Lecture Notes in Artificial Intelligence and Lecture Notes in Bioinformatics): Vol. 14699 LNCS. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-031-60898-8_17
Kulbok-Lattik, E., Roosalu, T., & Saro, A. (2024). Cultural sustainability and Estonian community houses. Frontiers in Political Science, 6. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpos.2024.1305143
Levy, C. E., Uomoto, J. M., Betts, D. J., & Hoenig, H. (2025). Creative Arts Therapies in Rehabilitation. Archives of Physical Medicine and Rehabilitation, 106(1), 153 – 157. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.apmr.2024.07.008
Maryunani, S. R. (2019). Community Empowerment as a Means in Promoting Local Products: A Case Study in Bandung, Indonesia. Journal of Promotion Management, 25(3), 439–451. https://doi.org/10.1080/10496491.2019.1557821
Mayangsari, L., Novani, S., & Hermawan, P. (2015). Batik Solo Industrial Cluster Analysis as Entrepreneurial System: A Viable Co-creation Model Perspective. Procedia - Social and Behavioral Sciences, 169(August 2014), 281–288. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.sbspro.2015.01.311
Muhajir, Ratyaningrum, F., Murwandani, N. G., Angge, I. C., & Oemar, E. A. B. (2020). Empowerment of the People Effected by Covid-19 Through GULIJAT Technical Training for Member of FBS Cleaning Service at Universitas Negeri Surabaya. Proceedings of the International Joint Conference on Arts and Humanities 2021 (IJCAH 2021), 491, 1263–1266. https://doi.org/10.2991/assehr.k.201201.212
Mulyaningtyas, A., Adiba, A. N., & Fauzi, Y. M. (2024). Preliminary study of cassava leaf extract feasibility as a natural textile dye. In R. Fatoni, F. Camelia, A. Kristanto, A. null, W. Setiawan, A. Mulyaningtyas, E. Setiawan, A. D. Anggono, M. Kusban, T. N. F, A. S. Putri, D. A. Prasetya, N. Aklis, N. Hidayati, & G. A. Prasetyaningtiyas (Eds.), E3S Web of Conferences (Vol. 517). EDP Sciences. https://doi.org/10.1051/e3sconf/202451708006
Nan, L. Z., Yahaya, S. R., & Hui, G. X. (2025). A Mathematical Inquiry into the Structure Complexity of Miao Batik Patterns: A Frieze Group Analysis. Paper Asia, 41(1), 70–80. https://doi.org/10.59953/paperasia.v41i1b.159
Nóra Menich, Z. K., & Tausz, K. (2024). The functioning of European social protection systems in fulfilling the needs of persons with disabilities during COVID-19 – a semi-systematic review. Disability & Society, 0(0), 1–20. https://doi.org/10.1080/09687599.2024.2323452
Novani, S., Putro, U. S., & Hermawan, P. (2015). Value Orchestration Platform: Promoting Tourism in Batik Industrial Cluster Solo. Procedia - Social and Behavioral Sciences, 169(August 2014), 207–216. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.sbspro.2015.01.304
Octavia, A., & Sriayudha, Y. (2024). A STUDY OF JAMBI BATIK ARTISANS IN INNOVATION AND STRATEGIC DECISION-MAKING TO INFLUENCE THE DEVELOPMENT AND RESILIENCE OF THE JAMBI BATIK INDUSTRY. Jurnal Ilmiah Ilmu Terapan Universitas Jambi, 8(2), 760–772. https://doi.org/10.22437/jiituj.v8i2.38037
Office of Assistant to Deputy Cabinet Secretary. (2018, May 18). National Batik Export Dominates Global Market. Cabinet Secretariat.
Pfeifere, D. (2022). The Issues of Defining and Classifying Cultural Centres. Economics and Culture, 19(2), 28–37. https://doi.org/10.2478/jec-2022-0013
Pusparisa, Y. D. R., & Saputra, F. L. A. (2024, March 12). Creative Economy, New Source of Growth for Advanced Indonesia. Kompas.
Rahman, O., & Gong, M. (2016). Sustainable practices and transformable fashion design – Chinese professional and consumer perspectives. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 9(3), 233–247. https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2016.1167256
Ratyaningrum, F., & Muwardani, N. G. (2005). Kriya Tekstil. Unesa University Press.
Ratyaningrum, F., Trisakti, Angge, I. C., & Marsudi. (2022). Development of Pamekasan Batik Motifs as the Application of Product Diversifications. Proceedings of the International Joint Conference on Arts and Humanities 2021 (IJCAH 2021), 618, 133–137. https://doi.org/10.2991/assehr.k.211223.024
Sabharwal, G. (2024, September 1). Promoting Social Inclusion in the Creative Economy in Support of SDGs in Indonesia in Bali - Resident Coordinator, Gita Sabharwal’s Speech. United Nations in Indonesia.
Sampurno, M. B. T. (2023). Critics of the Tendency of Art Education for Autistic Children in Indonesia. ARTSEDUCA, 35 SE-Experiencias Educativas, 121–133. https://doi.org/10.6035/artseduca.7107
Sampurno, M. B. T., Rizal Djahwasi, H., Alfarisi, S., & Anggun Camelia, I. (2024). Performing the opportunity space of therapeutic art education for autistic children. Arteterapia. Papeles de Arteterapia y Educación Artística Para La Inclusión Social, 19(SE-Investigaciones sobre arteterapia y educación artística para la inclusión social), e88594. https://doi.org/10.5209/arte.88594
Savana, A. F., & Ardianto, P. (2024). Introducing Natural-Dyed Shibori Fabrics for Moslem Community Empowerment Project in Japan. In S. null, G. Supangkat, N. Caroko, A. Zaki, A. Khan, E. Syafri, M. J. M. R, M. K. S. N. A, M. M. Tjale, M. F. Kamarudin, H. Basha, & M. Shaikh (Eds.), BIO Web of Conferences (Vol. 137). EDP Sciences. https://doi.org/10.1051/bioconf/202413703012
Sholikhah, R., & Nurmasitah, S. (2024). Use of Mangrove Rhizophora Mucronata as a Natural Dye in Exploration of Natural Dye Shibori. IOP Conference Series: Earth and Environmental Science, 1381(1). https://doi.org/10.1088/1755-1315/1381/1/012003
Steelyana, E. (2012). Batik, A Beautiful Cultural Heritage that Preserve Culture and Supporteconomic Development in Indonesia. Binus Business Review, 3(1), 116. https://doi.org/10.21512/bbr.v3i1.1288
Sugiarto, E., Husain, A. H. B., Syarif, M. I., Nashiroh, P. K., & Febriani, M. (2023). Between Aesthetics and Function: Transformations and Use of Batik Motifs in Urban Interiors in Indonesia. ISVS E-Journal, 10(7), 122–136. https://www.scopus.com/inward/record.uri?eid=2-s2.0-85169017121&partnerID=40&md5=76be1a1f5189742040f85bba1042b1f3
Suliyanthini, D. (2023). INTEGRATED STEAM EDUCATION AND CREATIVE SKILLS: EXPLORING COLOUR PHYSICS IN TIE-DYE SHIBORI TEXTILES. Procedia Environmental Science, Engineering and Management, 10(4), 527–544. https://www.scopus.com/inward/record.uri?eid=2-s2.0-85204983512&partnerID=40&md5=2881893ed56b5923a14b0b5b3151927b
Suryathi, W., & Gede, I. G. K. (2018). Empirical Studies Development of Creative Industry Its Contribution to Make-Up of Product Orientation Exporting in Denpasar-Bali. 953(1). https://doi.org/10.1088/1742-6596/953/1/012098
Syahid, A., Fauzi, A. M., & Ismayana, A. (2024). Sustainability Investigation of Batik Production at Seraci Batik Betawi. IOP Conference Series: Earth and Environmental Science, 1358(1). https://doi.org/10.1088/1755-1315/1358/1/012037
Tashakkori, A., & Creswell, J. (2008). Mixed Methodology Across Disciplines. Journal Of Mixed Methods Research, 2(1), 1–5.
Tejawati, A., Septiarini, A., Asdar, A. P., Wati, M., Hamdani, H., & Priyatna, S. E. (2023). Batik Pattern Classification Using Decision Tree Based on Color-Texture Features. 2023 6th International Conference on Vocational Education and Electrical Engineering: Integrating Scalable Digital Connectivity, Intelligence Systems, and Green Technology for Education and Sustainable Community Development, ICVEE 2023 - Proceeding, 347–352. https://doi.org/10.1109/ICVEE59738.2023.10348243
Tören, Z., & Açan, B. A. (2024). Social workers’ experience with the concept of empowerment: voices from the disability field. Journal of Social Work Practice, 38(3), 287–301. https://doi.org/10.1080/02650533.2024.2379449
Wahono, P., & Hara, A. E. (2019). The creation of corporate knowledge and innovation among indonesia’s batik producers: A case study of four main areas of batik production in java. International Journal of Business and Society, 20(1), 299–310.
Weeren-Griek, H. Van. (1949). Indonesian Art: Batik and Puppetry Art-Crafts of the East Indies. Design, 50(8), 10–25. https://doi.org/10.1080/00119253.1949.10742866
Winarno, E., Septiarini, A., Hadikurniawati, W., & Hamdani, H. (2024). The Hybrid Features and Supervised Learning for Batik Pattern Classification. Journal on Computing and Cultural Heritage, 17(2). https://doi.org/10.1145/3631131
A RPER é o jornal oficial da 